kuysen articles

All about Bathtubs...

2009-06-10T02:52:00.000-07:00

There are different ways of grouping bathtubs. According to their materials, how they are installed, their style or function...

Let us start with materials:
The most basic materials used are acrylic reinforced by fiberglass; steel and cast iron both coated with enamel paint. Some tubs are now even made of wood, stone or synthetic materials.

Most commonly used now are acrylic with fiberglass reinforcement at the bottom for extra strength. They are very light, but very solid and durable. Because acrylic is more flexible, more unusual designs can be made at affordable prices. One also have the choice of matching bath panels, taps at the rear, front, corner or side. While white is still the dominant trend, acrylic also can be available in any color imaginable.

The acrylic body is also preferred because it is not cold to the touch, the material itself is not slippery compared to cast iron or pressed steel. Since material is acrylic through and through, color is maintained even in long periods of time. Care should be given as abrasive cleaners, bleach, harsh chemicals and even cigarette butts can damage the surface of the acrylic bath. The higher the quality of the acrylic, the better they will retain their color. Direct exposure to sunlight should also be avoided as well for this can lead to cracks along the way. Pressed steel and iron coating will rub off over time and will expose the steel or cast iron layer due to wear and tear.

Pressed steel enameled tubs are heavier. But commercial projects prefer using steel over acrylic due to its strength. High quality brands like Kaldewei even offer more advantages. Bathtubs made of Kaldewei steel enamel 3.5 mm meet the highest requirements for strength and hygiene. Thanks to the unique surface finish, these quality bathtubs are abrasion-, scratch- and impact-resistant, and also resistant to acids and chemicals. Steel is an excellent heat conductor and quickly assumes the temperature of its surroundings or of the water. Kaldewei steel enamel 3.5 mm is lightfast and resistant to UV light and will not bleach out by it. Burning and smouldering objects (e. g. cigarettes or candles) leave no burn marks or traces of smoke on Kaldewei steel enamel 3.5 mm. Click http://www.kaldewei.com/en/materialien/gruende.php for more information on the special features of Kaldewei.

The most basic example of cast iron tubs are the free standing claw foot tub. These are more expensive and can be repainted over the years. Cast iron tubs are extremely heavy and requires a professional repaint job. Over the years, the top coating, like steel enamelled tubs will wear off and will expose the base layer.

Styles of Tubs
Aside from the typical bath, there are also models in which the bather fully reclines. These baths are typically shallow and long. Another type is where the bather sits up. These are known as Ofuro in japan and are typically short and deep.

Kaldewei's Bassino & Kusatsu are examples of both shallow and deep tubs.

Applications and Layout
Most common type is the inlay or built in tub which can be covered on one or more sides with aprons or panels. The free-standing is also becoming more popular. These actually give an illusion of space for they seem to float in any part of the room without the encumbrance of the concrete built-in casing.

Tubs these days are equipped with massage air and water jets. Some even come with integrated phone and speaker / radio systems. You would need a bath waste and overflow and a rim / deck mounted or free standing mixer to fill the tub. One should not forget the access panel for maintenance work of the jets and pump.

Important:
A bathtub is usually placed in a bathroom either as a stand-alone fixture or combination with a shower. So if it is a tub and a shower all in one, one should make sure the water splash is considered and goes towards the tub to the drain. This means that the positioning of the bath drain, shower curtain or enclosure plays an important role. The tub must be installed flushed against the wall and should be sealed using silicon along the edges. Some install tubs as a under lay with granite or marble over the tub. So before you choose your tub design, coordinate with the designer and be ready with the layout for both the tubs, mixers and other accessories.

Caring for Your Stainless Steel Sinks and Mixers

2009-06-10T02:35:00.000-07:00

Stainless steel does not stain, corrode, or rust as easily as ordinary steel (it stains less, but it is not stain-proof). So here are some guidelines to help maintain your finish.
· Don't... Allow liquid soap or other household cleansers to dry on the surface of the sink. Most brands contain chemical additives, which will affect the finish.
· Don't... Use drain cleaning products that contain sulfuric or hydrochloric acid
· Don't... Leave standing solutions of chlorine bleach and water in the sink for extended periods of time. Chlorides, which are found in most soaps, detergents, bleaches, and cleansers, are very aggressive to stainless steel. If left on the sink too long they can cause surface pitting.

Pit Marks or Obvious Corrosion
Corrosion is a real threat. Your builder, plumber, or ceramic tile installer, or you may be responsible! Construction chemicals, solvents and household cleaners contain chlorides and acids which can react and damage stainless steel. Chlorine bleach (chloride!) or products which contain it (many ordinary household cleaners do!) can stain/corrode a stainless steel sink. Muriatic acid which may be used by a ceramic tile person to clean grout, etc. Plumbing PVC solvents etc. can possibly cause problems. If a dangerous chemical gets on the sink, wash it immediately with water. Rinse well and dry the sink with a towel or paper towels.

Determine the Water Heater Capacity You Need

2009-05-27T20:57:00.000-07:00

This chart will help you estimate the hot water heater capacity one will need assuming a person uses 45 liters per shower or 65 liters on a regular sized tub.

Detailed breakdown is based on the following assumptions:

a. a person takes 10 mins to shower and consumes approx. 9 liters or 2.378 gallons per minute

b. a standard tub has 130 liters volume capacity

c. will use 50% of the hot and 50% of the cold water for both the tub and shower.

d. water pressure is around 1.5 to 2 bar

To give you an idea if you want to make a detailed computation, listed below are the water consumption based on Hansgrohe fittings at around 1.5 bar.

1. basin & bidet mixers : approx.7.0 liters per min.

2. exposed bath shower: approx. flow rate 22 l/min.

3. bath spout : approx. flow rate 25 l/min.

4. ordinary handshower mode is approx. 9.5 l/min without massage spray

5. rain overhead showers depends on the size, from a regular flow rate of 9.5 l/min to 11 l/min for those with limiters, it can go as high as 40 l/min for free flowing rain showers.

6. bathtubs sizes and volume capacity:

a. size 1.70m x 0.75m is approx. 130 to 200 liters

b. size 1.80m x 0.80m, 430 depth approx. 170 to 240 liters

c. size 1.90m x 0.90m, approx. 280

* please take note that Hansgrohe has a flow limiter that restricts to save water even if the pressure increases. So other brands will consume more capacity if pressure is higher.

Choosing Water Heaters...

2009-05-10T02:00:00.000-07:00

Which heater is for you and your home? Ask yourself which is your priority...cost and space saving or showering pleasure...

If space is limited and a single water line is provided like in some condominiums or old houses, a instantaneous water heater is a good choice. If you've invested in a good quality bathroom fixtures and fittings, getting a storage type water heater is more ideal.

Here are some facts and comparison between the two...

Energy consumption:
* wattage may vary depending on brand

1. Instantaneous water heater:
-3.5 kilowatts for single point water heaters
-6.5 kilowatts for multi point water heaters

2. Storage type water heater:
-2.5 kilowatts for 8-26 gals. or 30-100 liters
-4.5 x 2 kilowatts for 40-50 gals. or 152-190 liters
-5.5 x 2 kilowatts for 65-120 gals. or 247-456 liters

Advantages of Multi Point / Single Point Water Heaters
(single point heaters have only one line outlet and usually includes a shower set while the multi point is for 2 outlets, has a higher wattage & can be used for both the lavatory and shower but not recommended for bathtubs)

1. instant heating of water (therefore no pre-heating required and heats only exact amount consumed)

2. saves on space - small and therefore can be located under the sink or beside the shower

3. saves on piping because you only split hot and water pipes starting from the water heater

4. installed only on selected areas of the house or for public and industrial washrooms where hot water is needed on lavatories only.

Disadvantages of Multi Point / Single Point Water Heaters
1. sensitive to water and pressure fluctuation
(too high a pressure will not heat the water properly, too low and the heater shuts down so as not to overheat the unit)

2. distance of heater to mixers should not exceed 3 meters or will result in heat loss

3. reduces water flow in half (not recommended for rain and massage showers)

4. high maintenance, while warranty usually covers the unit itself, it does not cover spare parts that need to be replaced due to wear and tear. Check with the supplier before you buy your heaters, usually they include installation for free, after sales service and spare parts are of a different matter.

5. if there are a lot of water impurities, the pressure will drop every so often and the filter will need to be cleaned regularly. So ask your plumber where it is located so you can clean it yourself, otherwise, your water heater will not work properly.

Advantages of Storage Type Water Heaters
1. gives you the pleasure of equal hot & cold water flow

2. Some brands like Rheem automatically shut down when the water reaches 90 degrees and reheat if water temperature drops below default settings.
* some add a breaker to switch heater off upon leaving the house or when not in use to save cost & energy

3. generally low maintenance, you need only to replace thermostat after a few years as long as unit is protected against outside elements.

4. one unit can supply hot water to the house (it is sometimes advisable to put 2 units on different locations especially if some rooms are too far from the heater where hot water has to travel a certain distance)

5. not water and pressure sensitive

6. even if the heater is off or during power outages, pre-heated water is kept warm for hours because of the insulated tank.

Disadvantages of Storage Type Water Heaters
1. space consuming

2. heat loss occurs on still water trapped in pipes between faucet and heater therefore will take time to be replaced by hot water from heater (wastage of energy over long centralised pipe works)

3. pre heating required...from 15 minutes onwards depending on tank capacity

Cleaning those stuborn limescales...

2009-05-09T20:21:00.000-07:00

Our local tap water supply is full of impurities like lime-scales, calcium and other minerals. This is even much more so with a deep well water source. Having to maintain a shiny and dirt-mark-free chrome faucets to be a bit of a challenge. Here are some steps recommended to help maintain the shine in your Hansgrohe fittings...

• To remove lime scale, use only products made specifically for that purpose.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Do not use cleaners that contain hydrochloric, formic, acetic, phosphoric or muriatic acids, as these will cause considerable damage to the finish and to plastic components.
• Never mix cleaning materials.
• Do not use abrasive cleaning cloths, pads, or sponges.

Cleaning Procedures
• Clean your faucets and shower products as and when required. Regular cleaning will prevent scale buildup and water spotting.
• Follow label instructions. Do not allow any cleaner to remain on the product for longer than necessary.
• When using spray cleaners, spray first onto a sponge or cloth – do not spray directly onto the product.
• After cleaning, rinse thoroughly with clear water to remove any residue.

Important
• Soap and shampoo residue can also cause damage to the product. Rinse well with clean water after use.
• If the surface is already damaged, harsh cleaning materials will cause further deterioration.

Water purify system for the home
More and more home owners now install a water purifying system not only for filtering drinking water but cleansing out selected minerals & impurities. BWT, one of the leading brands in Germany, also carry products for filtration, disinfection & softening without the soapy feel. Definitely something worth investing in.

Comparing Siphonic with Wash Down Toilets...

2009-05-09T20:19:00.000-07:00

In wash down toilets, waste is simply “pushed” by free flowing water out of the trapway (usually 4” in diameter). The siphonic method on the other hand, employs a smaller outlet (usually 2” diameter) to slightly trap the flush water until it is filled enough for a siphonic action to pull the contents of the bowl out.

Because of this, here are some points of comparison between the two…

BOWL SIZE
Siphonic flushing requires a bigger elongated bowl to fill water properly to flush compared to the compact version of the wash down. Most Europeans prefer the space-saving models whilst elongated versions are preferred in the United States, thus, US type toilets to siphonic and European toilets to wash down.

WATER SAVING
Wash down toilets is usually equipped with a DUAL FLUSHING mechanism that can accommodate 3 or 6 gallons per flush for solid or liquid waste. In contrast, siphonic toilets require 6 gallons or more to flush properly. Some countries even mandate 4.5 gallon flush capacity. (Dual flushing is not advisable for siphonic systems)

TRAPWAY
Siphonic has a greater tendency to clog due to the smaller trapway. Since wash down does not need this suction, it has a larger trapway but leaves less water on the bowl after flushing compared to the half full of the siphonic version. Splashing sometimes occurs when solid waste hits the water for wash down versions. This can be minimized by placing a piece of toilet paper over the water.

SPARE PARTS AND MAINTENANCE
Over time, because of the impurities of our water, silicon or rubber washers for both toilets need to be changed. (Water seepage will occur)
A wash down toilet has top button flush, ABS plastic float valve and flush valve which rarely need replacement.

Siphonic type usually comes with the side lever, ABS plastic float valve and flush valve. Some versions have a float ball and chain which need to be replaced more often. (Replacement parts are generally sold in major hardware stores.)

CLEANING
Depending on the holes around the bowl rim where the water comes out, some wash down toilets tend to have “water marks”. Duravit’s special coating called “wondergliss” is a solution for this problem. This special coating will last for quite sometime as long as no harsh chemicals or solutions are used in cleaning the bowl.

Europeans therefore prefer having a toilet brush as a part of their bath accessories over the plunger that is more for the clogging of a siphonic toilet. So make sure you buy a good quality siphonic toilet or you end up having the same maintenance issue of malls where they throwing tissue papers in the bowl is discouraged.

CHANGING TOILETS
Siphonic toilets usually require a 12" (305mm) outlet from the wall to the center. Wash down versions need only 8-9" (200-230mm). So check whether it is possible or not to make adjustments on existing units before buying your toilet.

Nowadays, most customers want to change from siphonic to wash down. There will be a difference in outlet of 4" gap. You can either move the outlet which will also require you to redo the waterproofing or you can cover this gap with a 4" pre-wall. It is best to consult your contractor regarding these changes.